I never imagined myself eating at a tourist-focused restaurant, right next to the most iconic landmark of a major world capital. And I definitely didn’t expect to have the chance to try a perfect, truly memorable cacio e pepe in such a place — and have it served flawlessly from start to finish.
But that’s exactly what happened. In Rome, right next to the Colosseum, at a place that almost screams tourist trap, I had this heavenly dish at Ristoro della Salute. And to be clear — there was no rip-off, no scam, just great food, fantastic service, and very fair prices.
What Even Is Cacio e Pepe?
Cacio e pepe is a signature modern Roman dish. If we had to simplify it, we’d call it cheese and pepper spaghetti — since those are the main ingredients. But there’s a reason why this pasta has become one of the most beloved dishes in Rome over the past few decades, and why it’s now recognized worldwide.
The pasta is usually spaghettoni — a slightly thicker spaghetti — or tonnarelli, which is essentially spaghettoni made with egg. The cheese is Pecorino Romano, a sharp, local sheep’s milk cheese. The pepper is freshly ground. But what makes this dish truly special isn’t just the ingredients — it’s the sauce, which is made by combining only these three ingredients with starchy pasta water. The sauce clings beautifully to the rough-textured pasta, which is made using traditional bronze dies.
By the way, in Rome and southern Italy, “cacio” means cheese, and “pepe” means pepper. So the dish name literally translates to “cheese and pepper” — perfectly reflecting what I keep saying: the greatness of Italian cuisine lies in its simplicity.
The Ristoro della Salute Restaurant
Ristoro della Salute is located literally next to the Colosseum. I’m not sure if it’s obvious from the photo, but I took it from inside the ancient amphitheater — the restaurant is just a street away.
So at first glance, it’s hard to imagine a more touristy location. And if there’s one type of place I usually avoid, it’s tourist traps. I can’t stand flashy, generic restaurants made just for foreigners. No matter where I travel, I try to seek out hidden spots that are run with the spirit and taste of the locals.
But hunger and curiosity can be powerful motivators. Since we had timed tickets to visit the Colosseum, we had to find something nearby. A short wait in line only strengthened my suspicion that we were walking into a tourist circus — but as soon as we stepped inside, that feeling disappeared.
The place had a vibe that was both modern and traditional, with an authentically Italian atmosphere. According to their website, the restaurant has been open since 1930 — and there’s no way you survive nearly 100 years just by scamming tourists.
The Perfect Cacio e Pepe
I’ll be honest: I’ve tried making cacio e pepe at home many times, but I’ve never been happy enough with the result to publish a recipe. So maybe it was a bit bold to try it here, especially since — at that point — I still didn’t know whether we were in for a letdown.
But what I got was absolutely divine.
The pasta was a little thicker than standard spaghetti, cooked perfectly al dente. The sauce — made from freshly ground black pepper and strong Pecorino cheese — coated every strand of pasta flawlessly. To make sure the flavors really popped, it was served with an extra sprinkle of Pecorino and pepper. It was simply perfect.
Granted, I wasn’t completely full — but that wasn’t because they were trying to rip us off. In Italy, pasta is a primo, or first course. It’s meant to start the meal, not to be a full entrée like it is in many other parts of the world.
The Other Dish Didn’t Disappoint Either
Alongside the cacio e pepe, we also ordered another classic Roman dish: pollo alla romana. More precisely: Tagliata di pollo alla romana con pomodorini e peperoni — Roman-style sliced chicken with cherry tomatoes and bell peppers.
It was a perfectly cooked, flavorful chicken breast in a delicious tomato and bell pepper sauce, served with olives and capers. Another example of a super simple, yet incredibly tasty local dish — executed perfectly. Have I mentioned how much I love Italian food?
Ristoro della Salute and Cacio e Pepe: Highly Recommended
All in all, this was a fantastic experience. Ristoro della Salute didn’t match a single one of the negative stereotypes often associated with restaurants near major tourist attractions.
And not only was the cacio e pepe absolutely perfect — and something I can wholeheartedly recommend you try in Rome — but the second dish and the entire atmosphere of the place were wonderful too.
So yes, be a tourist — but ditch the usual assumptions. Grab a table right next to the Colosseum at Ristoro della Salute. You won’t regret it!
